Arriving in Zanzibar

April 23; it was time for my trip to Zanzibar.  I was going to take the 12:30 ferry and would arrive in Stone Town close to 2:30. 

After breakfasting in the Harbourview restaurant, I returned to my hotel room and started one of the novels I had picked up when shopping with Jeanne the day before: Treeland by Mkama Mwinjarubi. It would be a quick read.  The book was written for a competition for literature written in English by Tanzanians that could be used in schools for juvenile/teen readers. It told the story of a young tribal princess from an unspecified era (before modern technologies) who comes up against traditional views on gender and leadership. The book has potential for some of our programs at NorQuest… like in YIT (Youth in Transition).

Leaving the Docks

At 11:20 I took my bags to the reception, checked my suitcase in with the staff, and set off for the ferry terminal. At 11:35 I was there. When I got to the building I asked a fellow wearing a yellow vest (obviously a porter of some sort) if this was the waiting area. “No” he said, “you need to go around the side of the building. I will show you.” Then he tried to take my back pack so he could carry it for me. I told him that I could find it myself and thanks for the help. No go. Instead, he proceeded to walk with me and steer me. When I arrived at the gate (Indeed, out the front door and just to the right… 20 seconds away.) he asked for his tip. If I had a small bill or two (1000 or 2000 Tsh is a small bill!)  might have given him something, but I didn’t have anything small on me at that time and, besides, I wasn’t about to tip someone who I was actually trying to shake free from. I told him this. He wasn’t very pleased. He told me I could pay him in bigger bills. He would take $10 or even $20 American. I just pushed on and went through the cues to the waiting area. Later on, on the other side of processing, he found me again and sat across from me, grim faced and demanding a tip. I stood my ground… I really didn’t have any small bills. It was a bit uncomfortable. Thankfully there were lots of people around and he couldn’t get too aggressive. Yuck. I hate that kind of stuff.

Inside the economy section

The ferry was pretty packed in the economy section. It was difficult for everyone to get a seat. Once we pulled away from the dock and got underway, I moved to the outside section at the front of the ferry (They wouldn’t let us sit there before this.) It was good to get away from the crying babies and sweaty passengers. Outside was great. The sun was shining and the water was a brilliant blue. I continued reading my book and snapped a few pictures.

Outside - Fresh Air!

Zanzibar from the Ferry

When I arrived in Zanzibar I had to hand in my customs papers. Zanzibar is part of Tanzania but has its own government; not sure I totally understand but I can fill out forms. Then I headed for the hotel, The Mizingani. I had already looked it up on Google maps and I was pretty certain I could find it easily. It was only two blocks away down the seafront road. Unfortunately the road was closed for repairs and I had to go the “back way”, through some of the narrow alleyways that characterize Stone Town. Nevertheless I found it pretty easily. But I had to go through a gauntlet of taxi drivers, vendors, tour guides and “entrepreneurs” to get there. How many ways can you say “No thanks, I got this.”?

An alleyway in Stone Town

At the Mizingani I asked the front staff how you politely say “no thanks” in Swahili. They said that you could say: “hapana assante”. If the person persists you might say “nenda zako” (Get lost or go away.) or usinisumbue (Leave me alone.). They told me that mzungos (white people) are seen as rich and an easy way to make money. And now, especially in the low season, some of the entrepreneurs can be quite aggressive. Just be firm.  And for my stay, when I said “Hapana Assante” most of the vendors and taxi drivers were quite nice and they wish you a good day. Especially if you take the time to stop and talk to them with a smile. Only once did I have to say “get lost” and even that didn’t work (more about that later).

The Mizingani is an interesting old hotel. It has a lot of charm. Unfortunately the street in front of it is being repaired and repaved along with the sidewalks and planters. So there is a big wall of metal between the waterfront and the first floor of the hotel. And there is a constant racket of paving machines and power tools. I guess that’s why it was so cheap!  It hasn’t really bothered me though. My room looks out the back and I have been off wandering most of the daytime.

Inside the Mizingani

My room

The view from my balcony

 Like the other hotels I have stayed in this trip, the hotel is close to empty. Guests are like celebrities. Maryam, one of the waitresses, told me that they currently have 7 guests in a hotel that can accommodate 80 – 90. She also warned me about getting “played” by the locals. From the second I got off the ferry people were harassing me to go on spice tours and boat rides to Prison Island. And, it was no different at the hotel. One of the young “trainees” said he could line me up with a ride to Prison Island for only $35!  Maryam said I should pay no more than 30,000 shillings or $15.  Just cut out the middle men and go straight to the stores, booking sites or taxis yourself. Don’t trust the guys that come up to you in the street or even the hotel help who “have a friend”. It was exactly as I thought.

When I checked in, I immediately asked for a free map to Stone Town. They have to give you one; it is part of the tourism strategy for the island. The hotel staff suggested it might be better to hire a guide. Everyone here is a guide, for a fee.  I said I would be happy with just a map and I set out to explore. I went all over stone town with that map. I saw the beaches, the markets, the old slave market, the gardens, and I did it at my own pace.  When locals saw me wandering alone they would ask if I needed a guide. “Hapana Assante; I have a map! But thank you, you are most helpful!” I would reply. Although there were a couple of people who asked where I got the map from. Perhaps the locals don’t like the free map strategy.

Free Map!

A view from Shangani Park

The infamous wall... should be gone by June. (internet picture not mine)

It all went swimmingly well until I encountered another very aggressive seller close to the fish market who kept following me and pestering me for several blocks. He followed me around like a bad odor. He only had a couple of spice boats to sell and he wanted to sell them to me “so he could go home to his three children, who needed to eat!” Quite the drama king! He pestered, and pestered, and pestered. Finally I paid him five thousand Tsh for both (He started at 30,000), just to get rid of him and when I got back to the hotel I gave the boats to a couple of my favorite staff. I wasn’t going to pack along those ugly and large boats with a little bit of spice in them.

The Slave Market 

That night I took a swim in the hotel pool and watched the sunset from the restaurant balcony.  Stone Town was quite pretty. But what shall I do tomorrow?

The pool from my balcony... dare to jump?

The view at dinner from the Mizingani restaurant